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Messages posted by: Charles46
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I realize this chat is a couple of years old, but..... I have a Mold Inspection Agreement but I am looking for a Mold Testing Agreement. Does anyone have one they would care to share?
Many thanks.
The highest I have recorded is a 21.4, but that was low compared to the client's neighbor who had a 27.8. The neighbor's wife was a non-smoker and otherwise in good health. Then she came down with lung cancer. That is what ended up prompting the radon testing for the neighbor who shared the findings with others in the neighborhood.
For us, if the client is going to be at the inspection, we collect payment at the beginning. This way no one forgets, or in the case last week, they have time to go get the payment that they left at home. If the client is not going to be there, we expect payment to be sent prior to the inspection or paid via credit card if we need to go that route. In all cases, no payment, no report.
Wether you live in Atlanta or Boston, cold is cold. Thirty five degrees is still thrity five degrees.
If building code states that manufacturer instructions trump code, then when the manufacturer says do not operate under a certain temperature, then do not operate the system under that certain temperature. Most will say 65 degrees is that temperature, but some will go to 60 degrees.
If it is a heat pump and not an AC, you can operate the system, but you are not going to get an accurate evaluation due to the exterior temperatures.
If is is a straight AC unit you risk damage to the system trying to run it in cold temperatures. However, if you are so inclined to press the appropriate relay swith to to see if the compressor will engage then go for it. Are you certified and qualiifed to put a set of manifold gauges on the system? If so, then I am sure you know the readings have little value in cold temperatures.
What ever you are doing to "test" the AC in cold temperatures make sure you know what you are doing before you damage someones system. Secondly, be cautious of the information you are presenting to the client. The industry does not need more people out there reporting what they do not know, but think they do.
Doc Shane's answer is the logic to the question I was looking for. Thanks for the input to the discussion.
I am like Chad. Have not been to the Nachi forum in months. As good or better info here and none of the nonsense.
I agree there should be flashing under there. There should also be a gap or clearance between the headwall and the shingles. Don't need moisture wicking up the wall.
When recently faced with a similiar question, I choose the Thomas MegaLite IAQ pump. Then instead of purchasing a timer from EMS, I made my own. Some of the local guys in the business that I know have been running that pump for 10 years now.
In my opinion, you made the proper decision. From a business outlook, it may garner good will that will come back to bless you in the future. From a personal outlootk, you did what you felt was right and proper. You took what I feel was the high road and I applaud you for that.
I always count them. I count them on the way up and then confirm by looking at the rakes edges when I get to them. Since I always look to confirm drip flashing and edge flashing, I just take a count while I am there.
With most SOP's being as they are, I use that to my advantage. When a potential client calls and wants a price, I explain the difference between the SOP's the other guy's use and then I explain what I do that is above those SOP's and what the other guys do. Then I ask them what day they would like us to do the inspection on their future home. We will never get rid of the rift raft, but with a little education to the public, we can make it harder for them. Continuing education is not just for us. It is what we do everyday for those we serve.
Once I get certified, add me to the list.
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