CSST Bonding

Kevin:

Yes, here in CA anyway to purchase CSST, unless you already have a card from the manufacturer. I forgot mine once a few years ago and took the simple quiz in about 5 minutes. Not sure if still enforced.

I remember when I took my course and test, the instructor gave everyone the answers, it was 1-2 hrs long. Didn't make much sense. Still have my card but where I buy it I have an account so I don't need it.

Came across some black CSST on Sunday. I called it out for bonding. I just had an owner call me asking what was meant. So I explained it to him. He proceeded to tell me that he is a former code inspector from Chicago and he never heard of it. He also told me he asked a plumber and an electrician and neither of them heard about it. Convenient, right? He also told me that black CSST doesn't require the bonding. I'm going to re-read the link that Mike posted. Does anyone have any other good sites that I can reference?
Thanks!

The black Flashguard CSST does not require the #6 copper bond, only the yellow does. The black coating is designed to reduce the exposure of arc flash in the event of lightning strike. Below from the CSST safety site. Normally metal gas piping requires bonding, and NEC allows this to be done through an appliance equipment ground, such as a furnace.

Manufacturers of black jacketed CSST products which have been tested and listed to ICC-ES LC 1024, "CSST Utilizing Arc Resistant Protective Jackets", may not require or include in their instructions for the additional direct-bonding step that is required with standard yellow CSST products. However local codes are controlling and may differ from manufacturer's requirements. Local codes are governing and must be adhered to.

Always good info Mike. I'm going to switch topics as I don't feel like starting a new thread. Same guy also made a comment about my bathroom vent fan pointed at roof vent not vented through the roof. His comment was that the damper on the roof would get stuck open or stuck close. Also said it's acceptable for the duct to be pointed at a roof vent as long as it was within 6 inches. Any links for that? I'm digging around trying to find that now.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 05/12/2015 09:47 PM EDT

The contractor is incorrect for two reasons.

1. Since 2006 the following has been in the IRC.

M1501.1 Outdoor discharge.
The air removed by every mechanical exhaust system shall be discharged to the outdoors. Air shall not be exhausted into an attic, soffit, ridge vent or crawl space.

2. Since the dawn of time, warm moist air being exhausted into a cold space condensates and grows mold.

One heavy snow will block the vents and no ventilation will be taking place in the attic.

Chad:

First, the damper is generally in the exhaust fan, not the termination. IRC sections 303.3 and 1501.1 both indicate moisture exhaust must be direct to outdoors, not to attic. I see that condition a lot and comment it is not appropriate as the exhaust is humid and will cause condensation on the components surrounding the termination.

Thanks.

Funny! Yes, what Cameron said! We posted almost the same time same answer!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 05/12/2015 09:54 PM EDT

Chad D wrote: He proceeded to tell me that he is a former code inspector from Chicago and he never heard of it.

I think it's hilarious that he considers that a credential.

I actually pulled up NACHI's SOP and quoted it to him with the link which stated the same thing. I doubt I'll hear back from him, partially because he agreed to go ahead and do the work which was requested by the buyer.
If anything it reinforces the knowledge I already have and some times I learn things like in the black CSST.

There is way to many issues with that install to even list to include a flexible connection through the furnace cabinet. I would separate myself from manufactures specifications on this product, although this is normally the correct thing to do. With these products the manufactures have been way less than honest and it is now coming to light that these products failed when tested as far back as the 90's this product has had failures and the manufactures have only made changes in the product or the installation requirements as they get their butt in a crack over failures.

If you want good independent pier reviewed study's I can post them for you.

I would be interested in reading a little more about it. I have scanned a couple, but wasn't focused on what they said as I was looking for other info.